The fan spins, the light comes on, the timer counts down — but your food stays cold. This is the most common microwave call we get. The magnetron (the component that generates microwave energy) or the high-voltage circuit supplying it has failed. Requires professional diagnosis.

A microwave won’t run at all if it thinks the door is open — it’s a built-in safety lockout. Worn latch hooks, broken interlock switches (typically 2–3 in series), or bent hinges are the usual culprits. Door switch replacement is one of our most frequent microwave repairs.

Buttons that don’t respond, buttons that trigger the wrong function, or a completely dead panel. Usually points to a failed membrane switch (the thin layer behind the keypad) or a failing control board. Diagnosis tells us which component before we order anything.

An inoperative turntable causes uneven heating, but it’s often one of the more affordable microwave repairs. The guide rollers, the center coupler, or the turntable motor itself can fail independently. We’ll confirm which before quoting the fix.

Often just a burned-out bulb — but when a new bulb doesn’t fix it, the socket may be corroded or the control board has stopped sending voltage to the light circuit. We carry common microwave bulbs on the truck and check the circuit if a bulb swap doesn’t resolve it.

Over-the-range models have an exhaust fan that clears smoke and steam from your cooktop. A clogged grease or charcoal filter is the first thing to check — sometimes that alone restores airflow. If filters are clean and the fan still won’t spin or is grinding, the fan motor needs replacement.

Sparking inside the microwave cavity is a safety issue — stop using it immediately. A cracked or grease-soaked waveguide cover (the mica plate inside the cavity) is the usual cause and is inexpensive to replace. Less commonly, the cavity itself is damaged and warrants a frank repair-vs-replace conversation.

Not all noise is the same. A high-pitched electrical buzz during operation often signals a failing magnetron or diode. A grinding or rattling sound is usually mechanical — the blower fan, turntable motor, or a loose component. The sound itself guides the diagnosis.

Completely dead — no display, no response. A blown thermal fuse or ceramic fuse is often the cause and can result from a power surge or a failed component elsewhere. Door switches in series can also knock out the whole unit. We check the fuses and the full safety interlock chain on every no-power call.